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Mexico: Chiapas: Misol-Ha

Posted on March 15th, 2007 by Anna Zhan.
Categories: Blog, Mexico, Travel.

[Approaching the Misol-Ha waterfall]

With the sun shining down from the top of the waterfall, and the stone path leading down to the clear blue waters, I nearly expected some unicorns, or at the very least some wood nymphs, to step out of the surrounding trees.  Unfortunately, I wasn’t granted so much as a rainbow.

[A view out from BEHIND the waterfall]

There’s not actually a lot to see at Misol-Ha, but it does have one very cool feature: you can follow the stone path along behind the waterfall.  In stories, heros and villians always go into secret layers behind waterfalls…but the stories never warned you that you get VERY WET when standing just behind those gushing sheets of water.  Sigh.  I always have to learn the hard way…

[Are they encouraging skinny dipping here??]

Misol-Ha is a quick stop, and alone may not be wholly worth the trip, but you can combine it in a day trip with Agua Clara and Agua Azul for a total of US$10 to $15…not bad.

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Mexico: Palenque

Posted on March 13th, 2007 by Anna Zhan.
Categories: Blog, Mexico, Travel.

[Palenque ruins - back door]

Unknowingly, I entered the Palenque ruins site from the back door, which means I then got the opportunity to climb up a seemingly endless pile of vaguely identifiable ruins, covered in moss and mud and slick from morning dew.  It was great. 

[Grupo Norte] 

After making my way, miraculously - for certainly the insects should have eaten me alive along the path - I was greeted by the North Group, a set of buildings that, while not particularly fancy or large, were very beautiful, and a lot of fun to scamper around on.

[The Palace, viewed from atop the nearby Templo de la Cruz]

Approaching from the ball courts, I didn’t find out that you could enter the lower section of the Palace until I later doubled back.  (Actually, I missed large sections of the site on my first pass, so when I got to the main gate feeling rather unsatisfied, I sat down and analyzed a map before heading back in.)

    
[Left: upper section window; Right: lower section window]

Windows in the Palace’s walls were all T-shaped, a Mayan symbol for wisdom.  In the “underground” section of the palace (which was inexplicably above ground) the T-shape was turned upside down, apparently because the Mayans believe that everything in the underworld is upside down, and “underground” tunnels like the one I was in were gateways to the underworld.

[From closest to farthest: Temple of Inscriptions, Temple XIII, and Temple of the Skull]

Near the main entrance is a set of three interesting buildings, none of which could be climbed, and only one of which could be entered.  (But hey, getting to go inside is pretty exciting.)

[Tomb of the Red Queen]

Inside Templo XIII was a tomb (empty of course, but exciting nevertheless.)  Labeled the Red Queen, she has never been properly identified (not moreso than being female.)  But the woman with buried with over 1,000 jade pieces…so likely she was somewhat important.  Doubt I’ll ever be buried with 1,000 jade pieces.

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Mexico: Edzna

Posted on March 8th, 2007 by Anna Zhan.
Categories: Blog, Mexico, Travel.

[Random unrestored structure with tunnel]

On entering Edzna, after trudging through a length of mud and jungle - during which time I not only wondered if I’d find my way to the ruins, but also if I’d ever make it out again - I came to the choice of walking across the grass, or taking a short tunnel, possibly full of bats and spiders.  Of course, likening myself to Indiana Jones, we all know it was necessary for me to take the dark tunnel.

[Edificio de los Cino Pisos - the main temple at Edzna, standing 31 meters]

Entering the main plaza, I came to realize something.  The two Brits in my taxi and I were quite possibly the only people at this site.  And I’d left them way back in the jungle somewhere, so that made me the sole human in a site littlered with ancient temples.  It was a special sensation, and I took a few minutes to let the concept soak in.

[Mayan sun god - represented at sunset in this image]

Edzna didn’t have a great plethora of buildings, nor was it overly photogenic, but I did enjoy my time there, and it made for a nice half-day trip.  It did have a couple of neat sun god masks on site - one of the god at sunrise, and the other at sunset.  You could see hints of the paint they used - largely red, with hints of blue and green and black.  (Similar to colors the Chinese traditionally liked to use, no?  Very interesting.)

[My vote is either lizard or maybe turtle - or FROG!]

The above stone I found placed randomly on the pile of rubble that was an unrestored pyramid of medium size.  It interested me because normally any carvings are either removed or highlighted by a plaque…and this one was just a step on the temple that I doubt the average person notices.  I’m sure the acheologists have, and I know it’s not in great shape…but why was it all alone in the rubble?  And does anyone think about these things except for me?

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Mexico: Campeche

Posted on March 7th, 2007 by Anna Zhan.
Categories: Blog, Mexico, Travel.

[Campeche city gate]

Now a UNESCO World Heritage site, the only reason Campeche ever made it on to my itinerary in the first place was because I heard it had remnants of city walls.  City walls are the coolest thing ever - big, brick walls with lookout towers that peer out over moats that you cross on good old fashioned drawbridges…entering city walls is something akin to walking into a lifesize LEGO Castle set - a geek’s dream come true.

[Looking down a street in Campeche]

Little did I know that Campeche was a nice, relaxing town with delicious food.  In fact, all along the Gulf coast, the food is most excellent…I never fathomed Mexican food could be so good.

[Camarones al Coco - shrimp rolled in coconut and fried - is a local specialty.  Mine was served with a delicious mango chutney]

Mostly I try to eat at cheap places that cater more to locals, but Restaurant Marganzo was an exception - I decided to treat myself to the above mean.  I spent nearly US$20 - way above my budget - but hey, I was on vacation, and it was sooo worth it!

[Campeche at sunset - beautiful!  Actually, I was trying to get to the Gulf to see it set over the sea, but I failed.]

In a rather hectic schedule, I spent a good amount of down time in Campeche, trying to learn the art of relaxation, which most people know I’m not very good at.  I made a hobby of watching people in the main plaza feed pigeons - to each our own, right?

[Overlooking the Parque Principal from my hostel - Monkey Hostel - which I would recommend]

The bus to Palenque doesn’t leave until the middle of the night - buy early if you want to get on the 12:30am bus.  I didn’t buy until late afternoon on the day of travel and got a ticket on a then near-full 2:30am bus…and then I didn’t get much sleep on the bus, even though it was first class…

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Mexico: Kabah

Posted on March 3rd, 2007 by Anna Zhan.
Categories: Blog, Mexico, Travel.

I was greeted by a series of signs as I entered Kabah.  The first (above), which declared the site’s name, was only about a foot long and a few inches high.  Quite a change from the fascades at Chichen Itza and Uxmal, which both sported letters that were probably taller than I am.  So…not so much a major site…no.

[DO NOT THROW TRASH]

Reaction: Who would chuck something in an ancient temple???

[DANGER!  CEILINGS MAY COLLAPSE]

Reaction: Cool!  We get to go inside the structures!!!

[DANGER!  CLIMB STRUCTURES AT YOUR OWN RISK]

Reaction:  Yay!!!  We get to climb them, too!

And I wonder why my mother worries about me.

[The Palace of Masks]

Though I know you cannot see it clearly - at all - the Palace of Masks is covered from head to toe…or ear to ear…in masks of the rain god, Chaac, though most of the long noses have long since broken off.

[Chaac mask on the Palace of Masks]

Above is a close-up of one of the masks, which claims a rare in tact nose, most likely thanks only to the fact that it is sitting on the ground.

[A supporting collumn in the shape of a person]

On the back side of the Palace of Masks was the above collumn, an interesting site because 3D human images are extremely rare in Mayan works that have been uncovered thus far.  More impressive to me is the fact that it’s in as good condition as it is.

[The Palace]

The Palace - not to be confused with the Palace of Masks - was probably a government administrative building.  Now, iguanas live there.  I climbed up to the main level to take a look around.  “Don’t wander off,” my guide warned me.  “There’s nothing but jungle for miles and miles.” 

 
[Doorway pillars are a trademark of this area’s architecture style - at one time, perhaps ceilings were common, too.]

Carefully I made my way around to the back side of the side of the Palace.  Yep.  Nothing but jungle as far as I could see…yet didn’t my guide book say there was one other pyramid out there…a little disconnected from the group?  Imagine me…out in the jungle…discovering new pyramids…  Then something I had read earlier came back to me…  “Don’t wander off - it’s no fun playing Indiana Jones in the sweltering heat.”  Another day, perhaps.  I turned back.

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